Character: Lady Kayura
Series: Ronin Warriors
Version: Battle
Debut: Anime Matsuri 2013
Awards: 3rd Place Advanced, Anime Matsuri 2014
The Armor:
I used two methods of construction to create the armor. For the dark brown waist armor and shin guards I used EVA foam covered in vinyl. The waist piece is constructed out of EVA foam floor sheets. The foam itself is about 1/4” thick. I patterned out the belt and then the armor pieces using tracing paper to make sure everything would fit properly. Once I had the pattern I cut the foam using a heat knife. After cutting all the foam was shaped using a heat gun. I then sanded the edges smooth and rounded the appropriate edges. I used a file for getting the proper shape and then various grits of sand paper to refine it.
The Shin guards are constructed out of 5mm craft foam and the knee pads are also craft foam in slightly thinner widths (3mm & 2mm). I used the same method to pattern the shin guards as I did the waist armor. Once I had a shape I was happy with I constructed the leg to be shaped. Since her armor has a line down the front I put a seam in my craft foam and glued it together with hot glue. Then I shaped the front and back pieces of the shin guard with a heat gun.
Once all of the armor was shaped and sanded I gave it two coats of a watered down modge podge mixture to seal it. EVA foam is absorbant unless it is sealed. I needed a spray adhesive to stick to it so sealing was needed (as I learned the hard way). Once everything was sealed it was hit with a spray adhesive so that I could attache the vinyl. I sprayed each piece and then carefully placed it on a vinyl piece with around 2” of seam allowance on all sides. Once the vinyl was stretched over the foam I glued down the vinyl along the sides. Because her armor is made in segments I needed a way to keep it all together. I chose to back each piece with fabric and then wrap the remaining vinyl over ontop to seal the raw edges.
The second method used was leatherwork. For her chest armor I shaped and tooled the front, back and shoulder piece. To shape the chest I first built a bustform using expanding foam on a piece of foam core. I sprayed the foam and then let it cure. Once it was set I filed and sanded the piece down until it was the proper size and shape. Then the leather was soaked in water so that it would become mailable. It was then stretched over the form and clamped into place. After it dried it retained the proper shape.
For the back and shoulder much less shaping was required. First I patterend both pieces out and then each piece was cut and dampened with a cloth and then curved to the proper position.
To create the pettal design on the front of the armor I first created a pattern and then tooled the design using an embossing tool (to create the grooved outline) and a small texturing hammer.
Once everything was shaped and tooled I used a gel to color the leather and then sealed it.
The small rectangles on the belt piece are also made of leather in the same method and then glued onto the belt.
The Wig:
The wig started as a Jennie from Arda wigs. The Jennie is a short base wig made specifically to be put up and a long clip in hair piece for the ponytail.
The wig was ovesized for my head so first I had to reduce it’s size. I cut a small dart out of the back and sewed it together. It was then too tight to fir comfortably over my head so I took out the bottom half lf the stitched and sewed in a small piece of elastic. This was it could slip on easily but still be a little tighter. To increase it’s security on my head I added a small hook so that once the wig is on it can be hooked togehter and fit snuggly.
After the wig’s size was adjusted I began to put it up into the ponytail. First I sectioned off the hair that I would use for the bangs and side pieces. I then began to put the hair up in sections to make sure everything was smooth and covering all of the wig netting. Once it was pulled up I stubbed the wig, cutting all the excess hair and using caulk to seal the end.
Unfortunately The fibers in the Jennie were not long enough to pull the wig up high enough for the ponytail to be placed at a point where gravity wouldn’t just rip the whole thing off my head. This was definately a problem as I had already stubbed it. The plan I came up with was to build a wire armature underneith the wig with wires coming through at the point I needed the ponytail to attach. I built the armature using floral wire and sewed it to the wig. Extending out from the netting at the point where I would attach the pony tail is a set of 4 wires. I then sewed a small bit of fleece at the top to help cushion the wires so they would not sit directly on my head.
After completing the structure for the ponytial I styled in the sides and bangs. I used a steamer to set curl into the bangs so they would hang correctly and have proper volume. I then used a razor to do the inital cutting. Once everything was roughly cut I went back in with a pair of scissors and cleaned everything up.
After the styling was complete I needed to make the ponytail and attach it. I used a styrofoam egg as the base. I hollowed out a hole where the wires would slip into. I then painted the egg so it would match my wig’s color. After completing that I began gluing wefts to the bottom half of the egg. I then removed the elastic and clip out of the extension piece and glued it onto the top and sides of the egg.
Once the ponytail piece was made it was attached using copious amounts of caulk. The wires slide into the egg but it also rests on the top half of the stub so it has a lot of support.
The Leotard:
Kayura has a one shouldered leotard that is tied at the top of the shoulder. To make this I used a Kwik Sew patter with some slight alterations.
Because of my height I had to extend the torso so the leotard so that it would fit properly. Once I had made that pattern adjustment I cut out the pieces and sewed them together using the pattern instructions. I chose to add snaps in the bottom so that I could take the bottom portion of my costume off, because sometimes you just really have to use the bathroom.
To create the one shoulder look I just tried on the leotard and drew where I would cut directly onto the fabric (with a fabric pen of course). I cut along the line and hemed the edge.
To create the look of a tied shoulder I drafted a pattern for a tie and then just knotted it around the leotard shoulder. I then hand tacked it down the way I wanted so that it wouldn’t shift and move too much durring our preformance.
The Leggings:
To make the leggings I draffeted a pattern using a tutorial that showed you how to draft basing off of an existing pair of leggings. Basically I just kind of folded a pair of leggings I owned up along their seams and traced them onto some paper. I made the propper additions of seam allowance and then cut my fabric and sewed it up. I used a zig zag stitch on these because they needed to retain their stretch and I don’t own a serger. I finished them off with an elastic waist band.
The Shoes:
I went through three interations before getting a shoe I was happy with. Becuase Kayra wears sandals and tabi socks that are the exact same color as her armor the challenge for creating these shoes was enourmous. My first attempt was to draft and make a pair of tabi out of the vinyl I used for the armor. I quickly learned that you really just can’t make a good looking tabi sock out of two way stretch vinyl.
I decided to abandon the socks and sandals all together and create boot covers makeing faux sandle straps on top of the boot. The boot covers needed to be tight and form fitting for them to fit correctly with the armor pieces. I attempted to make a boot cover out of the vinyl and quickly learned that you just can’t make anything out of this two way stretch vinyl apparently. The issue was for it to fit correctly on my foot there was too much stress and the front seam and I could not have the opening be in the front because that part would be visible.
In round three I decided to give up on matching fabric and go for functionality. I made boot covers out of a brown 4 way stretch knit. Eurika! These were working perfectly. Once the covers were attached to the base shoe with fabri-tac I made the sandal straps out of craft foam wrapped in vinyl. I glued them on top of the boot cover. at the ends and middle, leaving them loose to allow for the fabric to stretch.
The Necklace:
The necklace was made primarily using XPVC (sometimes called Sintra) and Styrene. First I pattered out the various pieces in paper. Then I cut the base piece out of the XPVC. This part of the piece appeared to have a hammered texture so I had to figure out a way to recreate that. At first I thought to heat the XPVC and then use a stamp to press a design into the plastic, but I soon learned the plastic cooled too quickly and I couldn’t get a large enough surface area patterend.
My second attempt was to use a sanding bit and sand indentions into the plastic. I wasn’t strong enough to give enough pressure to get the desired look so Kevin did this part for me. Once that was textured I backed it with a piece of styrene.
Once the base was built I patterned out the frame and designs and cut them out of styrene. Then I backed that with craft foam so it would be raised. I used contact cement and hot glue to attach the frame and designs to the base.
Once everything was assembled it was a standard paint job, primer, sand, primner, sand, spray paint, and clear coat.
The Arm Guards & Gloves:
To ensure I had enough range of motion I opted to make the arm guards soft. I used a stretch vinyl and made a sleve that stretches enough to stay in place. The gloves were made using the tracing method. I just traced my hand and sewed the two pieces together.
The Arm Band:
The arm band is made of leather and painted with Angelus leather paint. It is held in place with a small piece of elastic that is glued and riveted to the leather.
The Makeup:
Aside from standard beauty makeup (foundation, blush, ect.) I had to find something that would work for the bright red design on the eyes. I chose a Krylon Aquacolor and carefully drew each eye with a brush.
To create the unique browline I covered my brow using a glue stick and drew on the new brow with a blue eyeliner pencil.
Photos: Angelwing, Ger Tysk, Mike Boike