Character: Umi Sonoda
Series: LoveLive! School Idol Festival
Version: Cafe Fruits
Debut: Anime Matsuri 2015
Awards: 2nd Place SGC 2015

I picked this design for Umi as my first Love Live costume (of hopefully many more to come) because it was a perfect balance of military styled structure and fluffy idol frills. I planned to enter this at Anime Matsuri specifically, so I made a lot of decisions in the construction that would highlight various sewing techniques.

The outer jacket and all cream colored fabric was custom dyed cotton sateen. I jacket was based on a commercial blazer pattern with modifications. It’s fully lined. I added functional (though very tiny) double welt pockets with flaps. The gold bias tape used on the jacket as well as other parts of the costume is a gold foil denim and it is AMAZING. I loved using this fabric. The blue blouse worn under the jacket is probably the weirdest thing I’ve ever made. It’s essentially a button up dickey. I used a existing mens shirt and made it a new collar.

The skirt is made in two parts. The top asymmetrical overskirt is three layers of double circle skirts. These skirts are made with casa satin and were flat lined/faced with a few layers of netting for structure. They are lined with a metalic satin. Horsehair braid was used to create the over the top frills. Then all three tiers were pleated and a waist band was added. The whole skirt snaps together so the integrity of the 3 layers is maintained. All of the bias tape was hand blind stitched (and it took forever) Then I used flat back rhinestones to give it more idol shine. The bottom plaid skirt was custom printed cotton poplin from spoonflower. It was box pleated. I also added a petticoat layer with one ruffle for a little fullness. The white lace is attached to that petticoat layer. Then I added more rhinestones to the lace because I could.

The fabric accessories were all patterned by myself. The hat is lined with felt for extra structure. The brown stocking was custom dyed spandex. The large bow is interfaced and has millenary wire sewn into the loops. The “school idol logo” is heat set vinyl that was custom cut. All of the gold bias on this was also hand blind stitched The boot cuffs were made of vinyl and attached to the boot tops with e6000. The boots were painted with angelus leather paint.

The resin accessories (the buttons and broach) were all cast in polyester resin. Custom molds were made for the half orange slices. All of the oranges have inset paper to create the orange pattern. The strawberries are cast with red glitter and red opaque resin dye.

Photos By: TifaIA Cosplay, Dallas Morning News, Squiddy, Cao Cao’s Bizarre Adventure, Angelwing, Chad Cosplay, Lotus JRPG, Strongerythems